ski & snowboard kit & equipment essential guide

Buying ski or snowboard equipment can feel expensive, but it can really help to improve your enjoyment of the sport having your own kit and it can work out cheaper than renting in the long run. It is not as simple as choosing hire skis or boards though as you can’t simply change them at the end of each skiing day.

Ski Types

Ski technology advanced dramatically during the 1990s when new materials and designs came together in easy-to-use, high-performance skis.

Ski design used to be race-driven, so everyone skied on slalom or giant slalom skis.

Today skiing equipment is largely driven by free-skiers who favor all kinds of terrain, from gently rolling pistes to steep and deep, powder covered mountain faces along with everything in between. The difficulty in choosing skis can be that modern ski technology means that the skis now commonly defy categorisation.

Don’t be afraid to ask the staff in your local ski store for advice. They will be only too happy to help you and it is in their interest to get you on the right skis for your needs. If you can, why not test the kit. You can often do this at a UK indoor snow slope or see if there is a test centre in the resort you’ve visiting.

Carving skis or on-piste carvers

Carving skis started out as "Parabolic Skis", the first generation of shorter, wider skis. All current skis reflect some elements of this design, but none use the original parabolic shape. For convenience (if not total accuracy), old-style skis are referred to as straight, and new, wider skis are referred to as shaped.

All mountain skis

All-mountain skis used to be 200cm or longer, but now a versatile, do-everything ski for an average-height adult runs between 160cm and 180cm in length. For cruising groomed runs and making occasional forays into other terrain, look for a ski up to about 80mm (or even wider with some of the new breeds of all mountain skis – link to all mountain ski test) in width under the boot for versatile performance across most terrain.

Freeride skis

Freeride skis, are generally thought of as ‘midfat’ skis, with the underfoot width between about 80mm and 110mm. They tend to be slightly stiffer than off-piste specific skis, as they are designed to ski on and off-piste, although they can be softer than piste specific skis.

Powder skis

Powder skis (which are often also referred to as Freeride skis) tend to be fatter and generally longer than piste skis (anchor to piste skis), but can be much softer flexing. The extra width and length provides better flotation in deep, soft snow. Powder skis range from 90mm in the waist right up to 140mm. Lengths vary from around 170cm up to 200cm. Some have what is termed a Rocker or Early Rise tip/tail system. This is where the ski curves up towards the widest point at the tip or tail, rather than down which is the norm. This helps to float the ski above the surface of the snow and also makes the ski much more manoeuverable.

Some powder skis have a reverse sidecut. This means the tip and tail are narrower than under the foot. Again this is to aid flotation and manoeuverability in the powder snow.

Big Mountain skis

Big mountain skis are usually between about 90mm and 130mm. They tend to be quite stiff and longer than regular skis for added stability skiing big off-piste lines at speed. Big Mountain skis typically range from about 180cm right up to 210cm. These are the skis of choice for competitors in extreme skiing events.

Slalom Skis

Slalom racing skis have become incredibly short. The fastest ski racers in the world commonly use skis of about 160cm, while a few years ago they would consider nothing less than 205cm. Flexible and responsive, they offer incredibly quick turning on firm snow, but are not a great choice for deep snow and un-groomed terrain.

GS skis

GS skis are stiffer than slalom skis and have a longer sidecut radius, and therefore a longer turn radius. These skis tend to be skied on hard packed snow at speed so the skis are used in longer lengths than slalom skis to aid stability and grip.

Twin-tip skis

Favored by skiers who enjoy the challenges presented by half pipes and terrain parks, twin-tip skis, also known as freestyle skis, are very soft and forgiving with a turned-up tail to land jumps backwards. Backwards riding is known as switch. Bindings are mounted farther forward than normal. Make sure to demo a pair to see if that's what you're after. Twin-tip skis can be skied in the same length as all-mountain skis, or slightly shorter, depending on preference.

Cross country skis

In general cross-country skis differ from alpine skis in that they're lightweight and designed for self-propelled travel over a wide variety of terrain, not just down hills. The bindings let your heels lift off the ski, allowing a normal striding motion.This term is also used to refer to the telemark skiing technique. Wax-less skis are far easier to use and preferred by many. They achieve grip for forward movement by means of a texture set into the skis' base. Wax-able skis require different wax for different snow conditions.

Cross country sacing skis

Fast, narrow skis intended strictly for use on groomed cross-country trails, racing skis are not for exploring untracked areas. Each of the two racing styles - skating and the traditional diagonal stride - have specialised skis. Your skiing style, weight and the local snow conditions will determine what ski is best for you. Only a local shop can evaluate all of these factors.

Touring skis

Touring skis are offered in a variety of widths and styles. Wider models, especially ones with metal edges, are designed for touring on rugged terrain or ski camping. Narrower, lighter-weight models are for gentler terrain and for use on groomed trails. Many people now use freeride skis (anchor to freeride skis bit above) for touring as these allow them ski on a wide variety of snow conditions. Backcountry skiers will also need a pair of skins to make ascents. These attach to the bottom of the ski for uphill traction.

Telemark skis

A telemark skier turns by sliding one ski forward, bending deeply at the knees, and arching both skis into a turn as though using one long ski. Unless you are a skilled, high-speed skier, a forgiving, easy-turning model will work best. Stiff or long skis are very challenging for a beginning telemark skier. Now many telemark skiers do not opt for a specialist telemark ski but choose a regular alpine model such as a freeride ski (anchor to freeride skis bit above) which they mount their telemark bindings on. These are often referred to as free-heel bindings.

Ski boots

If you're going to buy one piece of equipment, it should be ski boots. Even if you ski only a few days per year, there's no substitute for good ski boots.

Proper fit, appropriate level of stiffness, and comfort are essential for a great day of skiing.

If you've been renting skiing equipment, at least consider buying ski boots. Although the initial purchase price can be high, they last for years and provide a consistent foundation for improving your skills. Spending the time to find a skilled ski boot fitter will pay off every day you enjoy fun, pain-free skiing.   

Downhill Ski Boots

Downhill ski boots have a stiff plastic shell designed to hold your foot and ankle firmly in place.

For the best performance, buy the smallest ski boot you can comfortably wear and use only one thin synthetic sock. All ski boots expand in size slightly after you have worn them several times.      

Plan on spending at least an hour with a skilled ski boot fitter, and try on many different ski boots. A bargain boot that doesn't fit is no bargain. As you move up in ability, you generally want a stiffer (and more expensive) ski boot designed for faster, more aggressive skiing. If you're a beginner or an intermediate, you don't need this stiffness unless you're of above-average size.      

If your foot is very difficult to fit or you simply want the best fit possible, inquire about custom ski boot fitting. Some manufacturers recommend special moulding systems that make the ski boot conform exactly to your foot. All downhill ski boots are compatible with all downhill ski bindings.      

Telemark Ski Boots   

A telemark ski boot used to be just a heavy-duty cross-country ski boot. Now it looks more like a downhill ski boot, with some important differences.

First, decide where you will spend most of your telemarking time. If you only go to downhill ski areas, get a tall, stiff ski boot. If you prefer touring the backcountry, get a shorter, lighter ski boot for easier and faster ascents.      

As with alpine ski boots, spend time with a qualified ski boot fitter and experiment with different ski boots.

A properly fitting ski boot holds your heel firmly yet allows your toes to move around even with the sole flexed. It should fit snugly around your calf without crushing your foot. All telemark ski boots expand in size slightly after you wear them several times. Your toes should never hit the end of the boot.

A standard telemark ski boot measures 75mm across the front of the sole, and all 75mm boots fit all 75mm bindings.

Ski Poles

Want to know how to check your pole size? Easy

On a firm floor, grab a ski pole and flip it upside down. Grab the pole in your hand under the basket, and rest the other end of the pole on the floor. Stand with your knees slightly flexed, like when you are skiing, with your arm at your side. Your forearm should be parallel to the floor, with your elbow sitting at a 90 degree angle. Ski poles come in 5cm increments but if you want them tailored to something like 123cm, to make it even more precise, a good ski shop can trim them down for you.

Buying ski poles

You may not worry about your ski poles too much when hiring, but when you buy your own there is a wide variety of types to choose from. You can get carbon composite, metal, cork handled, detachable straps, gloves that clip into the handles, big baskets for soft snow, skinny baskets for racing; the list goes on.

  • Select a pole with strength. Most ski poles are made of aluminium or some sort of composite. Some people prefer the stiffness of aluminium while others like the shock absorbency of a composite pole. This is personal choice so pick the poles up in the shop to see which you prefer the feel of.

  • Decide what type of baskets you want on the bottom of your ski poles. Bigger baskets are more appropriate for skiing softer snow or powder, while smaller baskets suffice on hard-packed snow and do not drag as much.

  • Determine the kind of grip you want. Most ski poles come with a simple strap that goes around your wrists, while some have a plastic loop that encircles the grip or a strap or glove facilitates holding the pole in the right position yet has a releasable mechanism to make life a little easier.

Snowboards

When buying a new snowboard, you need to decide on the style/ type of snowboard, size, construction and of course graphics. You might also have a favorite snowboard brand or heard of a well-known brand.

There are 3 main types of riding styles which would depict what type of snowboard you buy:

  • Freeride

  • Freestyle

  • Alpine

If you like having a go at everything then you can opt for an All Mountain Snowboard which would be suitable for all types of terrain. Most shops in ski resorts will allow you to rent a snowboard to try before you buy. If you then buy the snowboard, the rental cost will often then be discounted from the final price.

Freeride

This is the soul of snowboarding. Freeriding is all about using the mountain's natural undulations and obstacles to get air and do tricks, or just simply cruise around.
Freeride boards are the most popular type of boards, accounting for half of all snowboard sales.

This is the go-anywhere, do-anything snowboard that bridges the gap between freestyle snowboarding and alpine carving. Both ends of the snowboard are turned up for riding switch (can lead with either foot), floating through powder and performing freestyle manoeuvres.

These snowboards are usually soft and manoeuvrable enough for beginners, but stiff enough to hold a fast turn in hard snow. Not as stable as a carving snowboard, not as agile as a freestyle snowboard. The freeride snowboard is designed for snowboarders who want to ride the whole mountain including the snowpark and halfpipe.

Freestyle

This style is popular among the younger snowboarders. It includes trick riding comprised of jumps, spins, grabs, jibbing, rail sliding, riding backwards and generally tearing it up.

While the equipment for this type of snowboarding excels in park and pipe, it can also be very versatile across the whole mountain.

Freestyle snowboards are shorter, lighter and softer in flex, this makes them more manoeuvrable. This characteristic makes it the snowboard of choice for a beginner.

These snowboards are built for performing tricks; spins, airs and riding switch (backwards). Freestyle snowboards are very responsive; the soft flex makes them forgiving and easy to turn, which also makes these good beginner snowboards. They have limited edge grip and stability; and are not good for carving turns or cruising fast.

Carving / Alpine

This type of riding style is one of the fastest growing segments within the snowboarding world. Commonly referred to as "cross-over," a majority of these snowboarders were once skiers.

A freecarve snowboarder enjoys the full length and width a mountain has to offer, continually transitioning from one turn to the next. More a European discipline by snowboarders crossing over from skiing, alpine riding is all about high speed and hard turning on groomed snow.

Carving snowboards are narrow, stiff snowboards designed for fast direction changes. Carving, Alpine or race snowboards as they can be called are narrower than freestyle or freeride snowboards.

Snowboard Size

Most of the time people ask: What length snowboard is best for me?
An often unasked, but equally important question is: What width snowboard is best for you? Both snowboard length and width factor heavily in finding and buying the correct size snowboard.

Length

Snowboard length is measured in centimeters and is sometimes abbreviated to just the last two digits. Hence, a Burton Custom 56 is a snowboard made by Burton that measures 156cm from tip to tail. Kids' snowboards run as short as 100cm and long race or powder snowboards can be upwards of 180cm.

To find the correct length snowboard for you, start by comparing it to your height. When holding the snowboard on its end, a short board will come up somewhere between your collar bones and chin. Because shorter snowboards are easier to manoeuvre, they are great to learn on and are preferred by snowboarders who do a lot of trick, snowpark and halfpipe riding.

A medium length snowboard standing on its end will come up between your chin and nose. This length is for the all around intermediate to advanced snowboarder who may ride a variety of terrain, including snowparks and steeps.

Long snowboards go from eye-level to several inches over the top of the head. Long boards are for high-speed carving, deep powder and big mountain terrain.
Snowboarders who are heavy for their height can stay within these guidelines, but should look for boards that have a stiffer flex. Lighter riders will need snowboards with a softer flex. Also, remember that these are general guidelines to get you started; personal preference can also strongly sway your decision of what length snowboard to buy.

Width

While length has some room for personal preference, snowboard width is directly tied to your foot size. Snowboarders with small feet need narrow snowboards; likewise, snowboarders with big feet need wide snowboards.

Snowboard width is measured in either centimetres or millimetres and can be found in the snowboard's specifications under waist width (usually on the tag or in the manufacturer's catalogue or website). The best way to find the correct snowboard width is to stand on a board that is flat on the ground. Strap or step into your snowboard bindings, or place your feet exactly how you would have them when you ride. (This is important because the more angle you ride with, the less your foot will span across the width of the snowboard).

When standing in your snowboarding position, your boots should be flush or slightly over the edges of the snowboard. If your toes and heels don't come close to the edge, you won't be able to apply proper pressure to your edges during a turn. If, on the other hand, your feet hang too far over the edges of the board, your toes may catch in the snow while turning and send you reeling. This phenomenon is sometimes referred to as "toe drag", and it is a drag.

Ski goggles

Let’s face it, if you can’t see where you are going, skiing or snowboarding can be a little difficult. Goggles offer improved definition and provide vital protection for your eyes and face in harsh weather conditions. They also tend to stay in place well, sometimes more so than glasses, and can be the ideal choice if you are new to skiing or snowboarding.

Goggles are also great if you are wearing a helmet because they fit snuggly over the helmet (but do ensure they fit your helmet before you buy a pair)! You can choose from a whole host of different sized and shaped goggles, so make sure you get a pair that are comfortable without any obvious gaps. You may even consider taking both a pair of goggles and a pair of glasses with you on the mountain – and you can wear whichever one suits the weather conditions.